Magnhild Kennedy, a.k.a. Damselfrau, is a Norwegian artist
living in London. A self-taught maker of masks, Kennedy dances on the
blurry lines of fashion, design, and craft, a space she isn’t wanting to
define. Although she doesn’t consider herself a jeweler, her work has a
strong dialogue with the field.
I am extremely interested in the “outsider jeweler” quality
of objects that speak to jewelry and adornment but were not necessarily
originally intended to participate in this dialogue. I find especially
interesting Kennedy’s opportunistic disregard for boundaries: She is
happy to do “proper” exhibitions, to be featured in music videos, but
also to disseminate her work, pretty much without definitional markers,
online. Also remarkable is a propensity to stage herself at the center
of reenactment or role-playing mise-en-scène: This strategy—where makers
become their own fabricated persona—is not unlike Leslie Boyd’s, Jêrome Dauphin’s, or Brittany Britton’s, and is somewhat of a emergent trend in the field of contemporary jewellery.
Matt Lambert: Could you give me a little background on
yourself? Your work can be found in quite a few places online, but I
have yet to find a lot of information on you. Where are you from? Where
do you reside now? Where did you study?
Magnhild Kennedy: I’m from Trondheim, Norway. I moved to London in
2007, and have lived there since. I never studied anything relevant to
the work I do now, except for a very sanguine, unfinished year of arts
in college. I grew up in a home where both parents were artists, so I’d
say that was my schooling. I never learned crafts or textile work,
though; those skills I developed on my own slowly through the years,
learning through looking at clothes and crafts, trial and error, and
watching YouTube tutorials.
You go by two different names posted online: Magnhild Kennedy
and Damselfrau. Are these names interchangeable, or do you use them at
different times for specific reasons?
Magnhild Kennedy: I use Damselfrau for the mask project as it seemed
like a good name for it, a word that masks itself. It says unmarried and
married woman in the same word; it’s a name I initially used as my
Skype name way before the masks emerged. To me it has come to mean
something like “married to oneself.” My real name has just naturally
begun popping up beside the Damselfrau name in online searches; either
name can be used.
How did you get involved with mask making? Where did you develop the skills for it?
Magnhild Kennedy: When I first moved to London, me and my man,
Robert, would go out to nightclubs a lot. Boom Box and Last Tuesday
Society. Full-on dress up. At some point I made us some masks and it
stuck. I just kept on making them. At the time, I was working in this
little vintage designer shop in Islington, and my boss would let me sit
and sew my own stuff behind the counter. I learned a lot looking at the
fancy old clothes in the shop. I’d turn them inside out and some were
disintegrating and I could get a proper look at the work and the
craftsmanship.
Where do you find your inspiration when creating?
Magnhild Kennedy: Materials mostly. I take apart old stuff, skip
dive, go to markets, eBay. Every morning I scan Tumblr. Architecture,
animal vids, fashion, plants, art, whatever. I’m a big sci-fi and
fantasy fan. My all-time faves are comics by Jean Giraud and Enki Bilal.
Whilst I work, I watch a lot of film and TV series. If I like something
a lot, I’ll watch it back to back, several times. It will get the juice
flowing, proper. But the material drives the whole thing.
A summary on Juxtapoz mentions that you favor using found or second-hand materials. What motivates you to seek out these materials?
Magnhild Kennedy: Initially I only used old stuff as it already came
with information, it always helped the process and it felt more like my
work was a part of something that was already there. It gave it some
weight. One of my reasons for moving to London was the wide range of old
objects that could be found here, and the museums. Stuff, really. The
stuff you could get here in a car boot sale from someone’s attic for
close to nothing was mind blowing. Old lace and beads and antique pieces
of clothing I could rip into. In Norway these things are not easy to get your hands on, and if you do,
they’re not cheap. Now I’m less dependent on using old materials, it
has become easier for me to get stuff going. Now I’ll use anything.
In your process do you start with these found materials and
build forms from them, or do you already have a concept and search for
materials that fit your ideas?
Magnhild Kennedy: I never draw or design anything, it will start with
a piece of “stuff,” material, something. A whole group of masks can
come out of a pompom. I just sculpt as I go along. Easy. No
overthinking. I have a manic side to me and it comes in handy when I
have to focus for a long time on detailed work.
What characteristics define a mask for you, as opposed to a
hood or a veil? Do you find the distinction between the two words
important within your work?
Magnhild Kennedy: No. Mix this stuff up. It’ll take it somewhere new.
A lot of my work meets somewhere in the middle. It’s funny, I’m not
especially interested in mask as category.
One singular aspect of your masks is that they hide (the
face) while drawing attention to themselves, like an elaborate trap for
the eyes. Isn’t there a bit of tension between concealing and baiting?
Magnhild Kennedy: Absolutely, it’s open for different interpretation
from the wearer and the beholder. It’s a place of freedom from yourself
and/or others. A place of privacy and intimacy.
Our European and Middle-Eastern readership will probably want
to see a connection (or play) between your masks and the policies that
have been put in place in the last few years to restrict or protect
Muslim women’s right to wear a veil in the public space. Some describe
face-covering veils (hijab, chador, or burka) as a challenge to women’s
sovereignty over their own bodies. Is this a conversation you feel part
of?
Magnhild Kennedy: No. If the work does that, it does it of its own
accord, and I don’t mind. I get this question occasionally; I don’t have
a good answer. Everyone should be able to wear whatever they want.
As a maker of masks, where do you see your work fitting in
the world of the gallery, the runway, the editorial image, and the
performing body?
Magnhild Kennedy: Anywhere it wants to go. In 2011, a gallerist saw
my pieces in a shop window and offered me a gallery show, and it felt
natural and good to remove the masks from the body and discover they
work well on their own as objects. These last few years I have done more
pieces for theater and stage and have had to attack the projects from
different angles and think function and impact from afar. It has changed
the work in general. I used to be very fixated on detail. I am better
at working with bigger strokes now.
We are witnessing what looks like a surge in mask- and
costume-making across disciplines: I am thinking for example of Nick
Cave’s costumes, Brian Jungen’s masks, and numerous examples from
fashion photography. What are some of your thoughts on this?
Magnhild Kennedy: Hard to say. I haven’t really given this much
thought, so I’ll let myself ramble a bit here. First, it seems like
lines around people’s work are getting more and more blurred. We need
more elements to make a full picture and a full experience. Everything
is possible. The Internet has opened a space for more collaboration and
we learn more from each other. I guess masks, in particular, are
powerful as they have no gender in principle and offer privacy in a
world where we are so over-engineered in our everyday lives and
presentation, and branding is everything. I think we are in great need
of excitement. We are served huge amounts of tragedy every day. We are
so over-informed and full. There is a general need for fantastical
creations, films, games, and music to take us somewhere else. So much
exciting stuff is happening at the moment in every line of creative
work. There is a wonderful reaction going on all over the place, to the
supposed “perfection” of people’s lives.
Because we’re doing this interview for Art Jewelry Forum, a
platform dedicated to the study of contemporary jewelry practices, I
must ask: What relationship does your work have to jewelry?
Magnhild Kennedy: The masks are wearable adornment, so I guess they can be jewelry, too?
What is a favorite or memorable project that you have worked on?
Magnhild Kennedy: Last year I was asked by the creative director of
Another Man,
Alister Mackie, if I wanted to do a piece with buttons for the
magazine. Louis Vuitton supplied me with thousands of buttons, and the
piece I made was shot as an autonomous object and I talked a bit about
how it came about. Julia Hetta shot a whole series with other Damselfrau
masks for the same magazine. It was a big deal for me. That was cool.
My photographer/filmmaker friend Fiona Garden brought me in to work with her and Daphne Guinness for Daphne’s video, “
Marionettes,” from her album
Optimist in Black.
A very cool experience. Daphne is used to the best of couture and
craftsmanship, so if she thought my work was good I gathered it had to
be true. For a self-taught person, it meant everything. I kind of came
of age in my work through that experience. It did wonders for my
confidence in the work.
Norwegian playwright Lisa Lie has engaged me to do pieces for two of
her plays. I'm a huge fan of hers and it has been such a privilege to
work with her. Her plays are absurd and full of information, and to work
with the stage has been a great learning curve.
All these people let me have freedom to do what I like, so the work
feels really good and like it’s in the right place. I don’t promote the
work, but I have an Instagram account, a blog, a Tumblr, and a FB page.
If people find my work on their own, it will hit the right people, and
the most important thing is that the masks represent themselves.
In November of last year, me and Robert produced my latest exhibition,
Idios, at Dalston Pier in London ourselves. It was a fab experience, very good learning.
Are there any projects on the horizon we can be looking out for? Where can we see more of your work?
Magnhild Kennedy: My friend Ben Ashton is a photorealistic painter,
his work is exquisite. He has photographed himself with my masks on, and
he is doing a whole series of large paintings due to go on show this
October at Cob Gallery in Camden, London. I have already seen the
finished works, and from only being used to seeing the masks in the
flesh or photographed, to see them painted, it’s a whole different
animal.
Which films or books have made an impression on you recently?
Magnhild Kennedy:
Mad Max was fab. I’ll watch anything post-apocalyptic. Matteo Garrone’s
Tale of Tales from last year was fantastic.
Before They Pass Away by Jimmy Nelson—so nice I cried when I first read it. Roger Ballen’s
Outland.
To Build a House You Start with the Roof, by Franz West. And the book
Paul Klee: Hand Puppets, by Christine Hopfengart and Osamu Okuda: bewitching stuff.
https://artjewelryforum.org/in-conversation-with%C2%A0magnhild-kennedy